Two "shawl-scarves" and a pelerine-collar (1861)

"On mete un boutonnière à chaque bout de chale, et un gros bouton à la pointe de derrière, atin de croiser le chàle, et d'en fixer les extrémités sur ce bouton; nous engageons toute nos lectrices à faire ce chàle-écharpe, qui leur évitera des rhumes, et peut-étre des fluxions de poitrine" = We put a buttonhole on each end of the shawl [pictured at left], and a large button on the back point, in order to cross the shawl, and to fix the ends of it on this button; we urge all our readers to make this shawl-scarf, which will save them colds, and perhaps chest inflammations.

 

 

The French fashion magazine "La Mode Illustrée" -- similar in content and intended audience to "Godey's" et al. -- published these three patterns early in its career, in January 1861.  The two "shawl-scarves" are knitted, while the pelerine-collar is crocheted. "The fashion for cloth coats, infinitely less warm than quilted coats, resulted in the adoption of the shawl-scarf, to which we are devoting two designs today" -- admirably practical!

The first shawl appears to be an early instance of a sontag -- a waist-length U-shaped garment that crosses over the chest and wraps around the waist to the back, and is fastened with buttons on the ends, or with ties that come around to the front.

"The Knitted Lace Collar Receipt Book"

Mrs. G.J. Baynes's The Knitted Lace Collar Receipt Book (1846) seems to have proved so popular that it went into multiple editions and series with new patterns.  Scans of the fourth edition of 1846 are available free at Archive.org and the Online Books Page, and modern knitted-up examples of a number of its patterns can be found at the book's Ravelry page.  Other modern knitters have worked some of Mrs. Baynes's lace collars, such as the blogger at One More Stitch who discusses her version of Collar no.2 here and here (commenting that the pattern is "clearly written and enjoyable to knit which led me to reflect that in less than ten years [since the publication of The Workwoman's Guide], the art of pattern writing, including the suggestion of needle sizes and materials, had become vastly improved"!) and here.

In addition to the Lace Collar book, Mrs. Baynes also wrote The Album of Fancy Needlework (1847) -- "or, novelties in knitting, netting, and crochet : both useful and ornamental" -- The Berlin Wool Home and Opera Cap Receipt Book (1849), and The Oriental Book of Crochet and Bead Work (1857), which may (also?) have appeared in La Mode Winter Book volume 1 of 1847, possibly a compilation of various needlework books or pamphlets by Eliza Warren, Eléonore Riego de la Branchardière, and others.

Anne (or Ann) Baynes, née Cox (1809-1883), was the wife of bookseller Godfrey John Baynes of Gravesend, Kent, who kept a "circulating library, Berlin wool and fancy depot" (a shop where one purchased "fancy goods," that is, notions and supplies for making decorative items) at 60, Windmill Street, and later at 60-61 High Street in that same town; he published and printed most if not all of his wife's needlework booklets.

Sources

Goulden, R.J. "A biographical dictionary of those engaged in the Kent book trade, 1750-1900, vol.1 A-L" (Croyden : [R.J. Goulden?], 2014), p.64.

"Miss Dewing's Fancy Depot," The Brisbane (Queensland) Courier, 17 December 1900, p.3.

The Jenny Lind collar

 

Jenny Lind, 1850. (Library of Congress, LC-DIG-ppmsca-38268). Lind was noted for her modest clothing and demeanor, in the days when women on the stage were thought to be little better than prostitutes.

 These collars are all of the "Jenny Lind" type, named for the wildly-popular Swedish soprano of the 1840s and 50s.  Note the slight differences here and there, which may be due to local fashion, the date, or the ladies themselves.

Said to be dated 1852.

 

Maria L. Smiley, Philadelphia, 1851. (Historical Society of Pennsylvania) 

 

 This young woman has gussied up her collar with a wide ribbon underneath.

 Mrs. Warren published a collar of "Swedish lace à la Jenny Lind" in her Point Lace Crochet Collar Book (Second Series) in 1847 --