A Compendium of Historical Knitting: Workwoman's Guide (Anon)

Showing posts with label Workwoman's Guide (Anon). Show all posts

Tuesday, January 29, 2019

"What Katy Did" (1872)

Two of the Workwoman's Guide muffatees (1840), patterns available in an earlier post here.

In the children's story What Katy Did by Susan Coolidge (1872), set in the 1860s, twelve-year-old Katy, at this point in the story an invalid after a bad fall, has knitted a pair of muffatees for her father and a pair of leading reins for her four-year-old brother at Christmas-time.

"I wish I had something pretty to put into everybody's stocking," she went on, wistfully; "but I've only got the muffatees for Papa, and these reins for Phil." She took them from under her pillow as she spoke – gay worsted affairs, with bells sewed on here and there. She had knit them herself, a very little bit at a time.

The two Workwoman's Guide muffatees in the illustration above are rather plain, certainly compared to the more elaborate ones in the book, which would make them likely candidates for Katy's pair, and why she doesn't think them very "pretty"!

Miss Loch's The book of "hows" or what may be done with wools in every home (Baldwin & Walker, 1900) has a pattern for leading reins -- yes, with bells! -- which parental necessity has obviously been around for quite a long time.

Franklin Habit has adapted a different pattern for leading reins from Weldon's.

Sunday, October 29, 2017

Four muffatees from Workwoman's Guide, 1840

Four muffatee patterns from A Workwoman's Guide (2d. ed., 1840), p.262; illustrations on pl.21. Note that the third muffatee is clearly not shown in Fig.26 (which is of a sock, the "Child's Long Sock" from p.257), but presumably Fig.46.

Here are four muffatee patterns from A Workwoman's Guide. The first is worked in three rows of knit stitch and three rows of purl ("turn stitch"). The illustration clearly shows an edging, though none is given in the pattern; you could work a selvage as you knit, or add a border afterwards.

The second is in garter stitch ("plain knitting") -- 28 ridges ("ribs") in the original, though of course this should be adjusted to suit the wool and the wearer. This illustration also clearly shows an edging in addition to the fringe added at the end.

The third muffatee -- "extremely pretty"! -- is worked in a two-color rib, with a 3-stitch border in garter stitch in one color, worked as you go. Note that two-color rib will produce vertical stripes, while the illustration appears to show horizontal ones.

The fourth muffatee is worked in alternate sections of garter st and double knitting, though the sequence given is perhaps not as clear to the modern knitter as might be desired.

About this project

This page is a compendium, not the compendium, and makes no claims to be definitive. That said, we will attempt to provide a broad spectrum of examples of knitting patterns, techniques, and stitches across the years.

The label "Pattern links" indicates that a link to an outside webpage is given in the post, directing the reader to the pattern (sometimes for purchase from the designer or adapter, but often free), and the label "Patterns" indicates that the pattern is given here in the post. Both categories are subdivided into historical periods.

The label "Historical patterns in modern terminology" gives either patterns themselves or (more usually) links to historical patterns rewritten for the knitter of today. (It can be very illuminating and educational to compare the original with an updated version!)

Note that although ordinarily we far prefer to refer to authors as they wished and presented themselves to the world on their books' title pages, in the case of knitting authors who were known -- sometimes known only -- by their husband's name, we have decided to here use their married names, e.g. Mrs. G.J. Baynes is here listed as Anne Baynes.

Weights of the more common historical yarns

Andalusian falls between modern fingering weight and sport weight; Jamieson & Smith's 2-ply "jumper weight" Shetland can also be used.

Crewel is the same as modern crewel wools.

Double Berlin is equivalent to a modern DK or a three-ply worsted.

Fleecy could come in a range of weights, probably from fingering weight to a soft bulky weight, but was most commonly from DK to soft bulky; the modern knitter will have to experiment to achieve the desired result.

Germantown is equivalent to a modern worsted (18-20 sts per 4"/10cm).

Knitting floss is probably a modern lace-weight.

Lamb's wool or worsted equivalent to modern sport weight; it is not a modern worsted, but refers to the way the wool was spun.

Pyrenees is a lace-weight wool with a slightly tighter twist than Shetland.

Saxony is equivalent to modern fingering or baby yarns (about 32 sts per 4"/10cm).

Shetland can still be found today; a two-ply lace-weight can also be used.

Single Berlin, like its relative double Berlin, was traditionally of merino wool; single is a needlepoint or fingering weight.

Worsted or lamb's wool is equivalent to modern sport weight; it is not a modern worsted, but refers to the way the wool was spun.

Zephyr is probably a light fingering weight wool.

A detailed table of discontinued vintage yarns (i.e. mostly 20th-century) and their respective weights can be found here, and a very helpful table of specific modern equivalents to historical yarns can be found here.