Showing posts with label Knitting books (American). Show all posts
Showing posts with label Knitting books (American). Show all posts

Monday, March 15, 2021

"A Winter Gift for Ladies" (1848)

"In [this] little work, all the different species of knitting, netting, and crotchet [sic], are so carefully explained, that a person totally unacquainted with their mysteries, may become a profient with very slight pains" -- from the introduction.

A Winter Gift for Ladies "by an American Lady" -- "being Instructions in Knitting, Netting and Crotchet Work, Containing the Newest and Most Fashionable Patterns from the Latest London Edition" -- published by G.B. Zeiber  of Philadelphia in 1848, is available to view as a PDF free online courtesy of the Antique Pattern Library.

The APL notes that this is "one of the oldest American booklets with crochet patterns".  The author includes a glossary of knitting terms, though no illustrations; patterns include muffatees (both knitted and "crotcheted") and mittens, a variety of purses, and bags, "quilts", stockings, comforters (scarves), shawls, etc., and a cephaline.  Some of the knitted muffatees are worked in the round on four needles and some are worked flat on two needles then sewn up.

Notice that all of the crochet patterns appear to be worked in the round -- it was assumed in the early days of crochet that this had to be done for the correct appearance of the stitches, so that working a crochet piece flat necessitated a surely-tedious cutting of the wool at the end of every row and reattaching it at the beginning.

There is no evidence, unfortunately, that the Winter Gift's "American Lady" is the same as the "American Lady" of Lonely Hours a year later.

Monday, January 25, 2021

"Lonely Hours" by An American Lady

"The need which the writer has felt in common with many others, of a work on Knitting, adapted to American usage,
 combined with several years experience in and close attention to that beautiful and useful art, has emboldened her
 to place before the public, the following little book, with a sincere wish that it may be found to meet the wants
 of her fair country-women" -- from the preface.

Beth Chamberlain, knitter and librarian/historian, has tracked down what may be the first American knitting book -- not the first knitting book published in America (which was a reprint of Mrs. Lambert's The Hand-book of Needlework in 1842), but the first knitting book written in America for American knitters.

This is Lonely Hours : A Text Book of Knitting, by An American Lady, published by E. Gaskill of Philadelphia in 1849 -- you can read Beth's post about her research and discovery here. What is distinctive about Lonely Hours is that the patterns seem for the most part to be completely original to the author, not re-workings of existing ones.

There are not many libraries in the U.S. that own a copy of this book (see which ones do here), but happily, the Boston Public Library has digitized their copy, which can be viewed online at The Internet Archive.

Being an inveterate librarian myself, I followed one trail among the clues uncovered by Beth, and surmise that "E. Gaskill" was Edward Gaskill of Philadelphia (1811?-1866).  Sharp eyes will have noticed that unlike the copy that Beth located, the Boston Public Library's copy was published by M. Bywater, also of Philadelphia -- Maurice (or Morris) Bywater (1817-1870) was in fact Edward Gaskill's brother-in-law, who had married Mary Matilda Bywater (d.1879) in 1843.  It is unclear why the book would have two different publishers in the same year.  (The meaning of the title is also a bit of a mystery.)

It is certainly possible that the "American Lady" was Matilda Gaskill -- although sources indicate that she and her brother were born in Wales -- though of course it is also possible that the "Lady" was someone unrelated to either Edward Gaskill or Maurice Bywater.
 

Authorship aside, there are curiosities even at a first glance throughout the book -- see for example page 52, in which an "opera cap" is defined, either simply or dismissively depending on how you read it, as "merely a long and wide scarf, one hundred stitches wide, and two yards and a half long" in what would now be called a light fingering weight wool.  Also on page 52 is instructions for "zephyr balls" in what is still a common way of making what are now known as pompoms (the earliest-known use of the latter word is 1873!)

Note that the author has included a page of her knitting terms at the back of the book -- it will be interesting to compare, in a future post, these terms with those of other writers of the same period!



Thursday, January 7, 2021

"The Columbia Book of Yarns"

The cover of the 1904 edition, with a lovely, rather Pre-Raphaelite illustration.

The Columbia Yarn Company issued a number of pattern books for knitting and crochet in the early years of the 20th century.  The first edition shows some of the articles in drawings and some in photographs, but the subsequent volumes are nearly all photographs.

All of the editions from 1907 to 1918 are credited to Anna Schumacker.

The Columbia Book of the Use of Yarns (1904)

Columbia Book of Yarns (8th ed., 1907)

Columbia Book of Yarns (9th ed., 1908)

Columbia Book of Yarns (16th ed., 1915)

Columbia Book of Yarns (17th ed., 1916) and another copy here

Columbia Book of Yarns (1917)

Columbia Book of Yarns (19th ed., 1918)

Columbia Book of Yarns : Women's Sweaters, Scarfs and Hats (22nd ed. no.2, 1921)

It is interesting to see the changes over time not only in fashions, but in the names of the garments themselves --  for example, the "Eton Waist" becomes the "Eton Vest".

For a helpful guide to relative yardages of Columbia yarns for those knitters now who want to find an equivalent yarn for the patterns, see the Columbia Yarns page at the Vintage Yarn Wiki.

I have not been able to find out anything about Anna Schumacker, who, by the entries in WorldCat, wrote (or revised) quite a number of books for Columbia besides The Book of Yarns, with publication dates from 1907 to 1919, including Columbia Cottons and How to Use Them: Latest and Most Practical Manual for Making ['Crocheting' on the cover] Infant's and Children's Caps (5th series, 1915).

Some time during or after the Great Depression, the Columbia company merged with Minerva Yarns to become Columbia-Minerva.