Tuesday, January 28, 2020

Prince Harald's knitted jumper

The knitted jumper worn by little Prince Harald when his family fled Norway just ahead of the Nazi invasion in 1940 inspired many a patriotic Norwegian, and Norwegians in spirit, to knit their own. The stitch pattern is a traditional Norwegian one, possibly from Hallingdal; it is also found in traditional Faroese designs and Latvian mittens.  Arne and Carlos, in the video below, call the pattern "Dovre," explaining that they do so because of a 1960s-era booklet for a cardigan using that name, which name "stuck in their heads" but that is not the traditional name for it, if there is one at all.  It is sometimes called the "chess" pattern in English, for its resemblance to the game board.

Laura Ricketts published a version of Prince Harald's red-and-white jumper in the January/February 2015 issue of "PieceWork" magazine, and there is also one (in Norwegian) by Nina Granlund Sæther, both available for purchase via Ravelry.

Tasha of By Gum, By Golly came up with a more feminine version that she calls "The Princess Harald Sweater" and blogged about it here.

The then-three-year-old Prince Harald of Norway. The pin on his cap was one of those sold by the Foreningen Norden (The Nordic Associations) at the Holmenkollen ski festival that year in support of war-torn Finland. Photos by Anders Beer Wilse, 1940; both photos, Wikimedia Commons.

In this video, Norwegian knitwear designers and educators Arne & Carlos talk about the "Dovre" stitch pattern --

 

Friday, January 10, 2020

"Victorian Slum House"

Adrian and Wiebke Bird.

A portrait from episode 2 (1870s) of "Victorian Slum House" showing a crocheted shawl, worn by shopkeeper Mrs. Bird with the ends wrapped around her waist and tied at the back.


Thursday, October 24, 2019

"London Eyre Shawl"



 
(There may have been two shawls used in the film, as this one looks considerably smaller than the one in the photos below.)


The London Eyre Shawl free pattern by Donna Strom recreates the shawl worn by Mia Wasikowska as the title character in "Jane Eyre" (2011).  Strom notes,
The London Eyre Shawl pattern was created and named solely by me as a replication/copy of a shawl which appears briefly in the 2011 Focus Features film production of "Jane Eyre" -- costume design by Michael O'Connor. According to Focus Features the original shawl was free-knitted by the owner of a company near London, England which produces custom pieces for period films. The name of the pattern is my way of paying tribute to the talented original knitter -- whose name is not known to me. To the best of my knowledge, no written pattern exists for the original shawl.
Note that Charlotte Brontë's novel was published in 1847, though is set somewhat earlier. Most film adaptations tend to use fashions of the 1840s for the main part of the story.

Short rows contribute to much of the shaping in this shawl.



Tuesday, September 24, 2019

Ladies' travelling cap (1847)


This pattern for a ladies' cap appeared on pages 25-30 of Miss Lambert's My Knitting Book, Second Series (1847). The transcription below is from the Gutenberg.org edition.

For those knitters with less time on their hands in which to work from early knitting instructions (!), Franklin Habit gives an updated version of this pretty cap in the Deep Fall 2010 issue of Knitty, as part of his "Stitches in Time" series.

A Travelling Cap.

This cap may be knitted with double German wool, in five shades of any light colour, and white.—Needles, No. 8.

Cast on one hundred and two stitches, with the darkest shade of colour.—Knit one plain row to form an edge. Then, commence the pattern (formed of four rows) as follows.

N.B. The first stitch of each row is always to be knitted.

First row—knit two together.

Second row—make one between each stitch, by taking up the wool between the stitches of the preceding row;—except between the two last stitches.

Third row—plain knitting.

Fourth row—pearl knitting.—The change of shade is always to be made in this row.

Repeat the above, four times, taking a lighter shade of wool for each pattern. Then work one pattern in white,—and repeat the five coloured patterns, reversing the shades, by commencing with the lightest. The fourth row of the eleventh pattern is to be omitted, in place of which one row must be pearled in white,—in order to bring the knitting on the outer side of the cap.

The front, or roll part, is now completed, which, when the cap is finished, should be turned over from the centre pattern of white.

Knit one pattern in white, leaving twenty stitches unknit, at the end of the fourth row.—Knit a second pattern, the same, leaving twenty stitches unknit, at the end of the first row; and, in the succeeding rows, making a stitch between the last two stitches; also, at the end of the second row, leaving twenty-two stitches unknit; and, at the ends of the third, and fourth, rows, leaving twenty-six stitches unknit.

Knit a third pattern in white, leaving twenty-six stitches unknit at the end of the first three rows; but, in the fourth row, pearl all the stitches to the end of the needle.

Knit a fourth pattern in white;—in the first row of this, knit all the stitches to the other end of the needle; but, at the end of the third row, leave twenty stitches unknit. Pearl the fourth row, with the third shade of the coloured wool, leaving twenty stitches unknit, at the end.

Knit three more patterns in colours,—(the centre being darker than the other two) leaving one stitch more unknit, at the end of each row. The fourth row of the third pattern is to be pearled in white.

Knit seven patterns in white, leaving one stitch unknit at the end of each row; and also, omitting to make a stitch between the first two, and last two, stitches of the second row.

When the seventh pattern is completed, there should be only eight stitches on the needle: with these eight, knit one pattern; and, at the end of the pearled row, pass the last stitch, before knitting, on to the other needle; then knit it, together with two of those before left unknit,—three in one.

Proceed in the like manner, at the end of the next, or double stitch row, and continue the same, until seven patterns are finished, from the above eight stitches.

Before commencing the last pearled row, fasten on the third shade of coloured wool, and pearl to the end of the row. Then, knit the last stitch, together with three of the unknit stitches,—four in one. Repeat the same, at the end of the next row.

In the next pearled row, knit again four together, as above, and three single stitches beyond, at the end of the double stitch row: also, knit four together, and one single, and two double beyond.

When two patterns, in the third shade, are completed, fasten on the white wool, and pearl a row;—at the end of this, knit three single stitches of the unknit beyond. In the next row,—knit, alternately, a double and a single stitch, throughout the row;—knitting the last stitch, together with one row of the unknit, and two single ones beyond.

In the next row, make a stitch between each, as usual; and, at the end of the next pearled row, knit three single stitches beyond. Work the three next rows as follows:

First—three double, and one single stitch, alternately:—the last must be a double stitch, and a single stitch beyond.

Second—a stitch between each, and three single stitches beyond.

Third—plain knitting, and three single stitches beyond.

Before commencing the next pearled row, fasten on the darkest coloured wool; knit a pattern quite to the end of each needle, and fasten off,—omitting the pearled row.

The cord for tieing this cap may be made by plaiting one light-coloured, and two dark-coloured, threads of wool together; each thread consisting of four plies of German wool. One cord passes across the front of the cap, under the chin, and another round the caul, with a bow at the side: the ends finishing with a tassel of white wool.—Ribands, which are prettier, may be substituted.

Thursday, May 30, 2019

How old is the "classic" fluted tea cosy pattern?

Bestway 1220.

1930s, perhaps?

Madame Weigel Cosies Book 1.

Both of these 1940s?

Greenock 58.

Sirdar 5578.

Bestway 3913

Copley's 1900

These four and Bellmans 1052 are probably 1960s, certainly pre-decimal currency in Britain, which was introduced in early 1971.

Emu 6196.

Along with Copley Lotus 1023, also 1960s or 1970s?

Wednesday, May 15, 2019

Tea cozy

The cozy pictured here was knitted to the Paton's pattern with some nods to Keren's (both linked below), in rather un-1930s but extremely well-insulating wool and mohair blends from Brown Sheep Co., Lamb's Pride Worsted and Handpaint Originals for the solid and variegated respectively. Photo from A Bluestocking Knits.

Keren of Tea by the Sea gives a pattern for her granny's tea cosy, adding that the original on which she bases her pattern is at least eighty years old -- let's say 1930s.

Yasmin of Knit, Shear Bliss! has written up a pattern based on her grandmother's very similar tea cosy (with an earlier post about it here, in which she says her pattern is from the 1940s).

Paton's offers a free reprint in PDF format of their classic fluted cozy, though alas with no date. Their version offers three sizes of cozy, to fit your particular pot. 

("Cosy" or "cozy"? The first is British/Commonwealth, the other American.)

Saturday, April 13, 2019

"Victory Jumper"


This pattern for "Your Victory Jumper" from the June 2, 1945 issue of the English Home Notes magazine was reprinted by the V&A Museum as part of their "1940s Knitting Patterns" article. The PDF of the pattern itself (retyped) is here. It has certainly proved very popular in its second life, thanks to the 2010s interest in vintage clothing and knitting! and a Google search for "victory jumper" will also show the ways in which changes in colorways will vary the look of the finished garment.

An updated version of the Victory Jumper, renamed "Clara," has been written by Rohn Strong.

Elsa Schappel Barsaloux

 Elsa Barsaloux first appears in print, so far as I can tell, in 1915, with both The Priscilla Baby Book no.1 and Utopia Book of Filet and Venetian Crochet, no.2. A veritable spate of books followed in the next few years, some of crochet but mostly knitting.

She had been born in Germany in 1875, and immigrated with her parents and younger sister in the early 1880s, settling probably in the Bronx, and married David Barsaloux around 1897.  He had been born in Colorado also to immigrant parents -- his father from Canada and his mother from Ireland -- and by the time of the 1900 and 1905 censuses, the young couple was living in the Bronx with Elsa's widowed mother, David working as a cashier in a hotel.  Elsa sold design models to several major department stores, and made her first foray into knitting pattern books in 1915; these first books were mostly published by various yarn companies, but towards the end of the Great War the Barsalouxs had opened their own company and were publishing under their own imprint.  Although 1917 was her glory year -- with at least six pattern books published -- five more were published in the next few years, but sadly Elsa died at the age of 49 in 1924, and David just four years later.


This article from the "Dry Goods Economist" highlights a Barsaloux innovation -- "the newest thing in the way of a retail store ... a shop devoted exclusively to yarns".  As hard to imagine as that is nowadays, in 1917 there was no such thing as a bricks-and-mortar yarn shop!  Mrs. Barsaloux's establishment -- The Yarn Shop, mind you!-- was located at 400 5th Avenue (where the Langham Hotel is now), was tastefully decorated in up-to-the-moment gray and lavender, and included tables and comfortable chairs "for those who are receiving instructions," and, with an admirable knowledge of her prospective clientele, a children's room with child-sized tables and chairs! 

The Yarn Shop, close up.


Pattern books by Elsa Schappel Barsaloux

1915

1916
  • Richardson's cross stitch book and filet crochet no.5 (Richardson Silk Co.)*
  • Richardson's silk and cotton crochet book no. 11
  • Utopia book of Cluny crochet (Henry E. Frankenberg)

*According to Leigh Martin, Richardson's didn't publish the names of the designers, so it's interesting that Barsaloux's is known -- perhaps she insisted on it?


1917


1918
  • The sweater book (The Yarn Shop/David N. Barsaloux)
 
1919

1920
  • The Priscilla Cluny crochet book

1921
  • Sweater styles : original model creations and designs (The Yarn Shop)


Sources

New York, New York City marriage records, 1829-1940 (database).
New York, New York City municipal deaths, 1795-1949 (database).
"Sells yarn exclusively," in Dry Goods Economist, vol.72, no.3836, January 12, 1918, p.59 (bound in issues 3835-3845).
Polk's New York City directory, 1920-1921 ["Barsaloux, Elsa  yarns  500 5th ave" on p.283], 1922-1923
United States World War I Draft Registration Cards, 1917-1918 (database).

Friday, April 12, 2019