Monday, September 20, 2021

"Knitted Yoke for a Corset Cover" (1897)


This 1897 pattern for a lacy yoke for a corset cover is from the American magazine "The Delineator" (v.49, pp.590-591), available free from the Hathi Trust, via Google and the University of Iowa. The yoke would be sewn to a fabric bodice, buttoned in the front.


A corset cover was a garment worn over a corset to smooth the lines under one's dress, and also to protect the inside of the dress from the hardware of the corset.  Corset covers began to be worn in the 1860s, when smoothness of the close-fitting bodices became the ideal, and they continued to be worn through the Edwardian period, presumably as long as corsets themselves were worn.  See the post at Historical Sewing for examples.

The young lady on the left has a smooth bodice, whereas the young lady on the right has a slight "dent" from her undergarments just above the bust. Images via Flashbak.

Thursday, August 12, 2021

Thursday, July 1, 2021

Canadian cloud (1874)

In honor of Canada Day, here is a pattern from The Lady's Knitting Book (1874) by Elvina M. Corbould for a cloud, a fluffy sort of scarf worn draped over the head when outdoors, sometimes over the shoulders --

Canadian Cloud. 

Wooden pins, No. 1; 10 skeins of white and 2 of scarlet Shetland wool. 

Cast on 200 stitches, and knit backwards and forwards for 2½ yards. Cast off. Now with the scarlet crochet a border at the two sides. Double the cloud lengthways, and then draw up the two ends and finish off with a large tassel, made in the following way : -- Double a skein of white wool twice, then tie it round very tightly with strong wool about two inches from the end; cut the other ends, and join the cloud and tassel together with a crochet cord made of Berlin wool. It makes the cloud prettier to add a little scarlet crocheted cap to the tassel.

Two and a half yards (2.25 m) by 200 sts, even when folded in half, would be a Canadian-sized cloud indeed!

Wednesday, June 23, 2021

"La Mode Shawl for Mourning" (1862)


This shawl for mourning wear is from Mlle. Riego's La Mode Winter Book (1862).  There were strict customs for mourning, with different garments, fabrics, and quantities of black as well as specific time frames depending on one's relationship to the deceased -- deepest mourning for an immediate family member, "second" mourning for a more distant one, with "half" mourning being the lessening before returning to ordinary dress.  (See "Mourning in the 1860s" at Sew Historically and "Stages of (Victorian) Mourning and Fifty Shades of Purple" at Lilac and Bombazine, among others, for examples.)

Mlle. Riego's pattern is for a half-mourning shawl, as mauve, grey, or white were the first colors allowed after the year during which a widow, for example, would wear deepest mourning.  An 1860s-era knitter could, of course, knit pretty much any garment in black and call it mourning wear, but this shawl is interesting in that it is designed specifically for that purpose.

All of the patterns in this book except for the mourning shawl are in "tricot écossais," or what we now usually call Tunisian crochet.  

Note that the shawl pattern is written using British terms, that is, its treble stitch is equivalent to the American DC -- but it is otherwise very simple, being in what we now call, perhaps because of shawls like this one, "granny stitch".

Friday, May 28, 2021

"Mary Isabella Grant Knitting a Shawl" (ca.1850)

"Mary Isabella Grant Knitting a Shawl" (ca.1850) by Francis Grant.

This lovely painting of the artist's daughter is also one that clearly shows that the artist knows what a piece of knitting looks like.  Mary Isabella is holding fabulously long needles (not "parlour style"), with the ball of wool in a little basket on her arm.  The knitting looks like a brioche stitch, very popular in the 1840s and 50s!


Friday, May 21, 2021

"The Artist's Mother Knitting in a Flat in Paris"

"The Artist's Mother Knitting in a Flat in Paris" by Albert Ranney Chewett (1877-1965).

Maria Susan Chewett (1836-1918), née Ranney, knits in the English or "drawing-room style," with the right needle extending over the hand, much like holding a pen; this style was the "posh" way of knitting from some time during the Victorian period to the 1940s at least.  Mrs. Chewett was born in England, spent much of her married life in Canada (where her six children were born), and returned to England to live out her widowhood with her artist son and a number of his siblings.

Note that this is not what is now generally called English-style knitting, in which the wool is held in the right hand and "thrown" or wrapped around the working needle (as opposed to continental-style knitting, in which the wool is held in the left hand and "picked" or scooped up by the working needle) -- here it has more to do with the way that the needle itself is held.

This style of holding the needles was almost certainly much earlier than this Edwardian-ish painting, but for the time being this post will have the "earliest known usage" label -- more on the "drawing-room style" to come ...

Thursday, May 20, 2021

British sailors knitting

Note that the original file-name is "sailors knitting out of boredom" (emphasis added)!  Sailors were usually very handy with needle and thread, so there is no reason not to believe that many of them also knitted, possibly on a regular basis. Note also their "drawing-room" style ("parlor style" in America) of holding the right-hand needle. Source, alas, unknown.

Wednesday, May 12, 2021

Elvina Mary Corbould

Elvina Mary Corbould was born in 1849 in Islington, then a comfortable middle- and upper-middle-class district on the northern edge of London proper.  She was the eldest of the four children of Henry Heath Corbould and his wife Ann; Henry was a member of the Corbould family of Sussex and London which produced an impressive number of artists, including two of Henry's brothers, over at least three generations.  Elvina was sent to St. Mary's school in Bury St. Edmund's, but in the same year that she was recorded there on the 1861 census, her father, a doctor, died at the age of forty, leaving Ann with four children, the youngest less than a year old.  Perhaps as a result, by the time of the next census in 1871, Elvina was recorded as a governess, presumably to at least the youngest of the family's five sons, in the household of Aster R.C. Corbould, a first cousin of her father's and already a noted artist.  Three years later, Elvina published her first books at the age of about twenty-three, The Ladies' Knitting Book and The Ladies' Crochet Book, demurely credited on the title pages to "E.M.C."  These were the first of many instruction books on a variety of needlework subjects, most of which, gratifyingly, ran to multiple printings and editions.

In 1893, in her early forties, she married Mark Anthony Robinson of Brighton, a surgeon. Robinson died in December 1911, but a few months earlier, Elvina had been enumerated on the 1911 census, though noted as "married", living with her mother and unmarried youngest brother (an artist), at no.6 Ruvigny Mansions in Putney (which was apparently Ann's family home), on the banks of the Thames. (It seems likely that Elvina and her husband were living apart because of his illness.) By the 1930s at least, Elvina was living at 24, Queen's Square, Bath, where she died 6 October 1936.

In addition to needlework manuals, Corbould published other didactic works including Side-Lights on Shakspere with Louise Rossi in 1897, Pitman's Studies in Elocution in 1909 ("A guide to the theory and practice of the art of public speaking, reciting, and reading") and Sweet Little Rogues (1876), her only exercise in fiction.

The frontispiece to Sweet Little Rogues. Note the "comforters" worn by all three of the children! (The illustrations are uncredited; it is entirely possible, given the artistic bent of many of the Corboulds, that they were drawn by Elvina herself.)


Works on knitting and needlework

1874

1876

1877

1878

1879

1882

1884

  • Directions for knitting drawers **

1887

  • The useful knitter 

1890

  • The knitter's note book

*Possibly a pirated or thoroughly-adapted American edition

**Known only from the knitting-books list at Booksandwriters.co.uk.


Sources

"Elvina Mary Corbould" in FamilySearch Family Tree (accessed 12 May 2021).

"Elvina Mary Corbould" at Gutenberg.org (accessed 12 May 2021).

"Elvina Mary Corbould" at the Online Books Page (accessed 12 May 2021).

"Elvina Mary Corbould" at WorldCat (accessed 12 May 2021).

Poulter, George F.C.  The Corbould genealogy. Orig. Ipswich : Suffolk Institute of Archaeology, 1935, available in PDF form via Corbould.com.

Sunday, April 4, 2021

1940s Fair Isle slipover

1940s Fair Isle slipover, hand-knitted. Source unknown.