"Polka Jacket Trimmed with Imitation Ermine" (1856)

The term "polka jacket" is rarely defined in period sources, but derives not from the dance but from the military jacket of the same name.

The General Regulations for the Military Forces of the State of New York (1870) describes their version, one of the two "Uniform Coat[s] for the Non-Commissioned Officers, Musicians and Privates of the National Guard Infantry" as "differing from the chasseur jacket [described meticulously in the article's previous paragraph], in being without skirt, but extending without seam five inches below the hip; without opening or buttons behind, and round edge in front" (p.252).  Women's knitted polka jackets seem to be fairly consistent in their details -- a single-breasted close-fitting jacket, usually collarless, with long sleeves and smooth skirt with rounded fronts, often trimmed, as this one is, in faux ermine, and apparently always worked in brioche stitch, possibly because brioche's inherent stretchiness made it easier to fit smoothly.

Here is the full pattern from the January-June 1856 issue of "Godey's Lady's Magazine" --

 A similar polka jacket from an 1849 issue of "Family Friend" was transcribed by Carol Rhodes and appears in modern-pattern format in Helen Bonney's article in the January/February 2013 issue of "PieceWork" magazine.

"What Katy Did" (1872)

Two of the Workwoman's Guide muffatees (1840), patterns available in an earlier post here.

In the children's story What Katy Did by Susan Coolidge (1872), set in the 1860s, twelve-year-old Katy, at this point in the story an invalid after a bad fall, has knitted a pair of muffatees for her father and a pair of leading reins for her four-year-old brother at Christmas-time.

"I wish I had something pretty to put into everybody's stocking," she went on, wistfully; "but I've only got the muffatees for Papa, and these reins for Phil." She took them from under her pillow as she spoke – gay worsted affairs, with bells sewed on here and there. She had knit them herself, a very little bit at a time.

The two Workwoman's Guide muffatees in the illustration above are rather plain, certainly compared to the more elaborate ones in the book, which would make them likely candidates for Katy's pair, and why she doesn't think them very "pretty"! 

Miss Loch's The book of "hows" or what may be done with wools in every home (Baldwin & Walker, 1900) has a pattern for leading reins -- yes, with bells! -- which parental necessity has obviously been around for quite a long time.

Franklin Habit has adapted a different pattern for leading reins from Weldon's.

Double-twist loop cast-on (1917)

This cast-on method can be found in The Priscilla Sweater Book by Elsa Barsaloux et al. (Priscilla, 1917).  Going by the objective in the picture for Step 7, it is clearly what we know now as "double-twist loop cast-on". I confess that I couldn't "get" Mrs. Barsaloux's instructions after Step 4, but the following two videos (and I'm sure there are other descriptions both in print and on the internet that are equally worthy!) are obviously using the same maneuvers --

Yarmouth ear warmers and Fair Isle watch cap

"Yarmouth (Maine) Historical Society is pleased to offer knitters the chance to knit some Yarmouth history this winter. We have reproduced patterns for two original winter accessories, an ear-warming headband and a Fair Isle watch cap, that were crafted for North Yarmouth Academy students by a local knitter during the 1950s and later.

"This pattern is for headband-style ear warmers that tie under the chin. Strands of contrast color are woven through eyelets to create stripes. Several strands braided together form the ties." The watch cap is knitted in two colors, with a ribbed, folded brim.

These patterns are available for free via Ravelry -- earwarmers and watch cap -- and from the Yarmouth Historical Society.

"Knitted Legging for Children from One to Two Years"

"Knitted Legging for Children from One to Two Years" from Babyhood : the mother's nursery guide, ed. by Marion Harland and Leroy Milton Yale, v.3 (1886-87), p.99.

"Mittens Knitted on Two Needles" (1876)

"Mittens Knitted on Two Needles" in Regia 4-fädig in color 1991 (grey heather) and Paton's Kroy in "Muslin" (cream). The crochet edging was improvised. A handsome and comfortable fingerless mitt. Photos from A Bluestocking Knits.

The terms "mitts" and "mittens," though today we usually use to refer to, respectively, fingerless-but-thumbed gloves and those with one fully-enclosed space each for thumb and all of the fingers together, seem to have been used fairly interchangeably in the early days of published knitting patterns, as here in the "Mittens Knitted on Two Needles" by Miss H.P. Ryder, in her Winter Comforts and How to Knit Them (1876). The Misses Ryder, sisters Elizabeth and Henrietta, were both writers of knitting "receipts" during the middle and later parts of the Victorian period; they were from Richmond, in Yorkshire.

The thumb is shaped with short rows. Note, too, this early use of the slipped-stitch selvage.

Uploaded to Archive.org courtesy the Richard Rutt Collection at the University of Southampton.

See also the article "The Richmond Glove and its Creator, Henrietta Pulleine Ryder" by Lesley O'Connell Edwards in the March/April 2018 issue of Piecework (Ravelry link here) which has background information on the Ryder sisters and an updated pattern for Miss Henrietta's Richmond Glove, which is a layered duo -- knitted in one piece -- of glove and fingerless mitt.

A blog post by Ann Kingstone about the Ryder sisters and the Richmond Glove is here.

The original ribbed top edge of the Mitten Knitted on Two Needles, before sewing up the side seam or edging the thumb.

Plain mittens, 1843

This pattern for "plain mittens" is from Selections of Knitting, Netting, & Crochet Work (1843) by Miss Watts (also available here).

Apparently, very little is known about Miss Watts, not even her first name.

Knitting patterns for recreating 16th-century coifs and stockings

Man's coif, knitted of silk. Part of the burial clothing of Ferdinando I Orsini (d. 1549), Duke of Gravina, at San Domenico Maggiore, Naples.

Mathew Gnagy has available in his online shop knitting patterns for three 16th-century garments, for the clothing historian or serious re-enactor.  All are designed to be worked in modern wools, either sock/fingering weight or sport weight.

One is a 16th-century stocking pattern "based on surviving examples from Italy. The style is based on a fine gauge silk stocking, but here, we give you the same construction and beautiful detail in a gauge that knits up quickly and resembles wool stockings from the era."

The other two patterns are for an under-coif and a coif with ear-flaps, based (though he does not say so here specifically) on the 1549 Orsini coif pictured above, and its mate. Although the two coif patterns are available separately, they are meant to be worn as a set.

While these are not period patterns, there can be little doubt, judging by Gnagy's meticulous research and high standards, that these patterns will provide excellent examples for the modern knitter of what a period knitted stocking or coif looked like!

"Melon hood for summer wear"

"Melon Hood for Summer Wear" by Mrs. Jane Weaver, Peterson's, August 1859

A melon hood looks from the illustration to be similar in general effect to this opera hood from Godey's a few years later --

Godey's lady's book, v.65, (Jul.-Dec.1862), p.122