Wednesday, September 29, 2021

"Home Fires"

Sisters Laura (Leila Mimmack) and Kate (Rachel Hurd-Wood) wear, respectively, the embroidered jacket from Golden Eagle no.478 and the leaf-patterned cardigan from Bestway 1027.
 
The 2015-2016 series "Home Fires" set in WWII-era rural England is chock-full of wonderful period knits -- and we know they are absolutely authentic as Bridget C. has tracked down the original patterns for two of her favorites.  Copies of the patterns are available for a modest fee from Sue at FabForties.

For more photos of knitwear from the series see the A Bluestocking Knits post here.

Golden Eagle no.478, an embroidered Bavarian-style jumper or jacket, knitted in 3-ply, to fit a 34"-36" bust. The pattern also included instructions for modifying the short sleeves to long, and a quote for the number of coupons needed for the wool.

Bestway 1027 a leaf-patterned cardigan with small collar, knitted in 3-ply, to fit 32" bust.

Kudos to the "Home Fires" costume designers, Lucinda Wright and Howard Burden, for using authentic patterns for their garment!

Tuesday, September 28, 2021

"Panel Slip-On Sweater" (1919)

This panel sweater appears in the May 1919 issue of the American magazine "The Delineator," available online at the Hathi Trust, via Google and the University of Iowa. Note the model's fashionable post-war "corset-less" figure! quite a difference from her mother's rigid silhouette twenty-some years earlier.


Monday, September 27, 2021

"Ladies' and Misses' Sweaters" (1897)


This 1897 sweater pattern is from the American magazine "The Delineator" (v.49, pp.700-701), available free from the Hathi Trust, via Google and the University of Iowa.

This pattern, in two variations, is presented in what was then a rather modern way, with photographs showing what the finished garment looks like when laid flat and when worn, as well as having (basic) instructions for making it larger or smaller than the single size given.  The only different between the two versions is the generosity of the upper part of the leg-of-mutton sleeves.


 The Met in New York has in their collection a wool sweater that looks remarkably like the Delineator one in its shape --

Sweater, ca. 1895, probably American. Casual wear such as this, the Museum notes, "is rare in museum collections because of the nature of its use and the intrinsic value people placed on more formal attire." Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, accession no.2009.300.1111.

 The Met sweater, though, is worked in a brioche stitch on the body and upper sleeves, with probably a single rib at the waist and lower sleeves, with accents in an interesting zigzag stitch.

Monday, September 20, 2021

"Knitted Yoke for a Corset Cover" (1897)


This 1897 pattern for a lacy yoke for a corset cover is from the American magazine "The Delineator" (v.49, pp.590-591), available free from the Hathi Trust, via Google and the University of Iowa. The yoke would be sewn to a fabric bodice, buttoned in the front.


A corset cover was a garment worn over a corset to smooth the lines under one's dress, and also to protect the inside of the dress from the hardware of the corset.  Corset covers began to be worn in the 1860s, when smoothness of the close-fitting bodices became the ideal, and they continued to be worn through the Edwardian period, presumably as long as corsets themselves were worn.  See the post at Historical Sewing for examples.

The young lady on the left has a smooth bodice, whereas the young lady on the right has a slight "dent" from her undergarments just above the bust. Images via Flashbak.