A Compendium of Historical Knitting

Thursday, August 12, 2021

Knitting sampler (1880-1920)

Knitting sampler, cotton (1880-1920). Source: ModeMuseum Antwerpen, via Wikimedia Commons.

By Bluestocking on August 12, 2021 No comments:
Labels: 1880-1920, Knitting samplers
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About this project

This page is a compendium, not the compendium, and makes no claims to be definitive. That said, we will attempt to provide a broad spectrum of examples of knitting patterns, techniques, and stitches across the years.

The label "Pattern links" indicates that a link to an outside webpage is given in the post, directing the reader to the pattern (sometimes for purchase from the designer or adapter, but often free), and the label "Patterns" indicates that the pattern is given here in the post. Both categories are subdivided into historical periods.

The label "Historical patterns in modern terminology" gives either patterns themselves or (more usually) links to historical patterns rewritten for the knitter of today. (It can be very illuminating and educational to compare the original with an updated version!)

Note that although ordinarily we far prefer to refer to authors as they wished and presented themselves to the world on their books' title pages, in the case of knitting authors who were known -- sometimes known only -- by their husband's name, we have decided to here use their married names, e.g. Mrs. G.J. Baynes is here listed as Anne Baynes.

Modern patterns in historical styles

Patterns labeled "In the Historical Style" are not recreations of actual historical garments, but, as might be surmised, modern patterns creating a garment or object as a sort of hommage to the historical style -- though of course without the strict historical accuracy of a period pattern or re-creation. There may at times be a fine distinction between the two!

Photos

I would be delighted to add photographs of finished garments! If you would like to contribute some (your own work, of course), feel free to contact me. Otherwise I use only images in the public domain, those labeled for noncommercial re-use, or those for which I have permission.

Labels

  • 16th century (1)
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  • 1880-1920 (3)
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  • 1890-1910 (1)
  • 1890s (5)
  • 18th century (2)
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  • 1900-1920 (2)
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Knitting from historical patterns

"Everyone His Own Knitting Needles" by Colleen Formby gives a glossary of many period knitting terms, an explanation of period yarn weights, and the multitude of period needle sizes.

Weights of the more common historical yarns

Andalusian falls between modern fingering weight and sport weight; Jamieson & Smith's 2-ply "jumper weight" Shetland can also be used.

Crewel is the same as modern crewel wools.

Double Berlin is equivalent to a modern DK or a three-ply worsted.

Fleecy could come in a range of weights, probably from fingering weight to a soft bulky weight, but was most commonly from DK to soft bulky; the modern knitter will have to experiment to achieve the desired result.

Germantown is equivalent to a modern worsted (18-20 sts per 4"/10cm).

Knitting floss is probably a modern lace-weight.

Lamb's wool or worsted equivalent to modern sport weight; it is not a modern worsted, but refers to the way the wool was spun.

Pyrenees is a lace-weight wool with a slightly tighter twist than Shetland.

Saxony is equivalent to modern fingering or baby yarns (about 32 sts per 4"/10cm).

Shetland can still be found today; a two-ply lace-weight can also be used.

Single Berlin, like its relative double Berlin, was traditionally of merino wool; single is a needlepoint or fingering weight.

Worsted or lamb's wool is equivalent to modern sport weight; it is not a modern worsted, but refers to the way the wool was spun.

Zephyr is probably a light fingering weight wool.

A detailed table of discontinued vintage yarns (i.e. mostly 20th-century) and their respective weights can be found here, and a very helpful table of specific modern equivalents to historical yarns can be found here.

Some Historical Knitting Sources

  • Art of knitting, The (Butterick, 1892)
  • Beeton's Book of Needlework (1870) [Archive.org ed.]
  • Beeton's Book of Needlework (1870) [Gutenberg.org ed.]
  • Comprehensive Knitting Book (Esther Copley, 1849)
  • Exercises in Knitting (Cornelia Mee, 1846)
  • Godey's Lady's Book patterns at Ravelry (incomplete index)
  • Knitting magazines at the Internet Archive
  • Knitting patterns at the Internet Archive
  • Knitting reference library at the Internet Archive
  • Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book (Miss Watts, 1840)
  • Manual of Worsted Work for Those Who Knit and Crochet, A (Lion Yarn Co.) -- 1912
  • Mrs. Jane Weaver patterns at Ravelry (incomplete index)
  • Weldon's Practical Needlework (New Series) [vol.11]

Some Blogs by Historical Knitters

  • Historically Dressed (Jenni Lithgow)
  • Knitting Now and Then (Barbara)
  • Mostly Pointless Drivel (Beth Chamberlain)
  • Theodora Goes Wild (Theodora)
  • Thread Forward (Yvonne)
  • World Turn'd Upside Down (Stephanie Ann Farra)

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