A Compendium of Historical Knitting: January 2020

Tuesday, January 28, 2020

Prince Harald's knitted jumper

The knitted jumper worn by little Prince Harald when his family fled Norway just ahead of the Nazi invasion in 1940 inspired many a patriotic Norwegian, and Norwegians in spirit, to knit their own. The stitch pattern is a traditional Norwegian one, possibly from Hallingdal; it is also found in traditional Faroese designs and Latvian mittens. Arne and Carlos, in the video below, call the pattern "Dovre," explaining that they do so because of a 1960s-era booklet for a cardigan using that name, which name "stuck in their heads" but that is not the traditional name for it, if there is one at all. It is sometimes called the "chess" pattern in English, for its resemblance to the game board.

Laura Ricketts published a version of Prince Harald's red-and-white jumper in the January/February 2015 issue of "PieceWork" magazine, and there is also one (in Norwegian) by Nina Granlund Sæther, both available for purchase via Ravelry.

Tasha of By Gum, By Golly came up with a more feminine version that she calls "The Princess Harald Sweater" and blogged about it here.

The then-three-year-old Prince Harald of Norway. The pin on his cap was one of those sold by the Foreningen Norden (The Nordic Associations) at the Holmenkollen ski festival that year in support of war-torn Finland. Photos by Anders Beer Wilse, 1940; both photos, Wikimedia Commons.

In this video, Norwegian knitwear designers and educators Arne & Carlos talk about the "Dovre" stitch pattern --

Friday, January 10, 2020

"Victorian Slum House"

Adrian and Wiebke Bird.

A portrait from episode 2 (1870s) of "Victorian Slum House" showing a crocheted shawl, worn by shopkeeper Mrs. Bird with the ends wrapped around her waist and tied at the back.

About this project

This page is a compendium, not the compendium, and makes no claims to be definitive. That said, we will attempt to provide a broad spectrum of examples of knitting patterns, techniques, and stitches across the years.

The label "Pattern links" indicates that a link to an outside webpage is given in the post, directing the reader to the pattern (sometimes for purchase from the designer or adapter, but often free), and the label "Patterns" indicates that the pattern is given here in the post. Both categories are subdivided into historical periods.

The label "Historical patterns in modern terminology" gives either patterns themselves or (more usually) links to historical patterns rewritten for the knitter of today. (It can be very illuminating and educational to compare the original with an updated version!)

Note that although ordinarily we far prefer to refer to authors as they wished and presented themselves to the world on their books' title pages, in the case of knitting authors who were known -- sometimes known only -- by their husband's name, we have decided to here use their married names, e.g. Mrs. G.J. Baynes is here listed as Anne Baynes.

Weights of the more common historical yarns

Andalusian falls between modern fingering weight and sport weight; Jamieson & Smith's 2-ply "jumper weight" Shetland can also be used.

Crewel is the same as modern crewel wools.

Double Berlin is equivalent to a modern DK or a three-ply worsted.

Fleecy could come in a range of weights, probably from fingering weight to a soft bulky weight, but was most commonly from DK to soft bulky; the modern knitter will have to experiment to achieve the desired result.

Germantown is equivalent to a modern worsted (18-20 sts per 4"/10cm).

Knitting floss is probably a modern lace-weight.

Lamb's wool or worsted equivalent to modern sport weight; it is not a modern worsted, but refers to the way the wool was spun.

Pyrenees is a lace-weight wool with a slightly tighter twist than Shetland.

Saxony is equivalent to modern fingering or baby yarns (about 32 sts per 4"/10cm).

Shetland can still be found today; a two-ply lace-weight can also be used.

Single Berlin, like its relative double Berlin, was traditionally of merino wool; single is a needlepoint or fingering weight.

Worsted or lamb's wool is equivalent to modern sport weight; it is not a modern worsted, but refers to the way the wool was spun.

Zephyr is probably a light fingering weight wool.

A detailed table of discontinued vintage yarns (i.e. mostly 20th-century) and their respective weights can be found here, and a very helpful table of specific modern equivalents to historical yarns can be found here.