Saturday, April 13, 2019
"Victory Jumper"
This pattern for "Your Victory Jumper" from the June 2, 1945 issue of the English Home Notes magazine was reprinted by the V&A Museum as part of their "1940s Knitting Patterns" article. The PDF of the pattern itself (retyped) is here. It has certainly proved very popular in its second life, thanks to the 2010s interest in vintage clothing and knitting! and a Google search for "victory jumper" will also show the ways in which changes in colorways will vary the look of the finished garment.
An updated version of the Victory Jumper, renamed "Clara," has been written by Rohn Strong.
Elsa Schappel Barsaloux
Elsa Barsaloux first appears in print, so far as I can tell, in 1915, with both The Priscilla Baby Book no.1 and Utopia Book of Filet and Venetian Crochet, no.2. A veritable spate of books followed in the next few years, some of crochet but mostly knitting.
She had been born in Germany in 1875, and immigrated with her parents and younger sister in the early 1880s, settling probably in the Bronx, and married David Barsaloux around 1897. He had been born in Colorado also to immigrant parents -- his father from Canada and his mother from Ireland -- and by the time of the 1900 and 1905 censuses, the young couple was living in the Bronx with Elsa's widowed mother, David working as a cashier in a hotel. Elsa sold design models to several major department stores, and made her first foray into knitting pattern books in 1915; these first books were mostly published by various yarn companies, but towards the end of the Great War the Barsalouxs had opened their own company and were publishing under their own imprint. Although 1917 was her glory year -- with at least six pattern books published -- five more were published in the next few years, but sadly Elsa died at the age of 49 in 1924, and David just four years later.
This article from the "Dry Goods Economist" highlights a Barsaloux innovation -- "the newest thing in the way of a retail store ... a shop devoted exclusively to yarns". As hard to imagine as that is nowadays, in 1917 there was no such thing as a bricks-and-mortar yarn shop! Mrs. Barsaloux's establishment -- The Yarn Shop, mind you!-- was located at 400 5th Avenue (where the Langham Hotel is now), was tastefully decorated in up-to-the-moment gray and lavender, and included tables and comfortable chairs "for those who are receiving instructions," and, with an admirable knowledge of her prospective clientele, a children's room with child-sized tables and chairs!
Pattern books by Elsa Schappel Barsaloux
1915
- The Priscilla baby book no. 1 : a collection of babies' garments in knitting and crochet, with directions for making
- Utopia book of filet and Venetian crochet, no. 2 (Henry E. Frankenberg)
1916
- Richardson's cross stitch book and filet crochet no.5 (Richardson Silk Co.)*
- Richardson's silk and cotton crochet book no. 11
- Utopia book of Cluny crochet (Henry E. Frankenberg)
*According to Leigh Martin, Richardson's didn't publish the names of the designers, so it's interesting that Barsaloux's is known -- perhaps she insisted on it?
1917
- The Priscilla sweater book, including hats, caps, and other accessories, with directions for working
- The Priscilla war work book, including directions for knitted garments and comfort kits from the American Red Cross, and knitted garments for the Boy Scout
- Good Shepherd fingering yarns and their use: Sweaters (Shepherd Worsted Mills)
- Good Shepherd fingering yarns and their use: Infants' wear (Shepherd Worsted Mills)
- Good Shepherd fingering yarns and their use: The boudoir (Shepherd Worsted Mills)
1918
- The sweater book (The Yarn Shop/David N. Barsaloux)
- Knit wear de luxe : original model creations and designs (The Yarn Shop)
- Utopia yarn book : being a practical treatise on knitting and crocheting (Utopia Yarns)
1920
- The Priscilla Cluny crochet book
1921
- Sweater styles : original model creations and designs (The Yarn Shop)
Sources
New York, New York City marriage records, 1829-1940 (database).
New York, New York City municipal deaths, 1795-1949 (database).
"Sells yarn exclusively," in Dry Goods Economist, vol.72, no.3836, January 12, 1918, p.59 (bound in issues 3835-3845).
Friday, April 12, 2019
"Fitting a 1940s pullover"
For tips on how to adjust and fit a vintage (specifically 1940s) knitting pattern, read the series by vintage-clothing doyenne Tasha of "By Gum, By Golly" here.