A Compendium of Historical Knitting: May 2018

Friday, May 25, 2018

"Mittens Knitted on Two Needles" (1876)

"Mittens Knitted on Two Needles" in Regia 4-fädig in color 1991 (grey heather) and Paton's Kroy in "Muslin" (cream). The crochet edging was improvised. A handsome and comfortable fingerless mitt. Photos from A Bluestocking Knits.

The terms "mitts" and "mittens," though today we usually use to refer to, respectively, fingerless-but-thumbed gloves and those with one fully-enclosed space each for thumb and all of the fingers together, seem to have been used fairly interchangeably in the early days of published knitting patterns, as here in the "Mittens Knitted on Two Needles" by Miss H.P. Ryder, in her Winter Comforts and How to Knit Them (1876). The Misses Ryder, sisters Elizabeth and Henrietta, were both writers of knitting "receipts" during the middle and later parts of the Victorian period; they were from Richmond, in Yorkshire.

The thumb is shaped with short rows. Note, too, this early use of the slipped-stitch selvage.

Uploaded to Archive.org courtesy the Richard Rutt Collection at the University of Southampton.

See also the article "The Richmond Glove and its Creator, Henrietta Pulleine Ryder" by Lesley O'Connell Edwards in the March/April 2018 issue of Piecework (Ravelry link here) which has background information on the Ryder sisters and an updated pattern for Miss Henrietta's Richmond Glove, which is a layered duo -- knitted in one piece -- of glove and fingerless mitt.

A blog post by Ann Kingstone about the Ryder sisters and the Richmond Glove is here.

The original ribbed top edge of the Mitten Knitted on Two Needles, before sewing up the side seam or edging the thumb.

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About this project

This page is a compendium, not the compendium, and makes no claims to be definitive. That said, we will attempt to provide a broad spectrum of examples of knitting patterns, techniques, and stitches across the years.

The label "Pattern links" indicates that a link to an outside webpage is given in the post, directing the reader to the pattern (sometimes for purchase from the designer or adapter, but often free), and the label "Patterns" indicates that the pattern is given here in the post. Both categories are subdivided into historical periods.

The label "Historical patterns in modern terminology" gives either patterns themselves or (more usually) links to historical patterns rewritten for the knitter of today. (It can be very illuminating and educational to compare the original with an updated version!)

Note that although ordinarily we far prefer to refer to authors as they wished and presented themselves to the world on their books' title pages, in the case of knitting authors who were known -- sometimes known only -- by their husband's name, we have decided to here use their married names, e.g. Mrs. G.J. Baynes is here listed as Anne Baynes.

Weights of the more common historical yarns

Andalusian falls between modern fingering weight and sport weight; Jamieson & Smith's 2-ply "jumper weight" Shetland can also be used.

Crewel is the same as modern crewel wools.

Double Berlin is equivalent to a modern DK or a three-ply worsted.

Fleecy could come in a range of weights, probably from fingering weight to a soft bulky weight, but was most commonly from DK to soft bulky; the modern knitter will have to experiment to achieve the desired result.

Germantown is equivalent to a modern worsted (18-20 sts per 4"/10cm).

Knitting floss is probably a modern lace-weight.

Lamb's wool or worsted equivalent to modern sport weight; it is not a modern worsted, but refers to the way the wool was spun.

Pyrenees is a lace-weight wool with a slightly tighter twist than Shetland.

Saxony is equivalent to modern fingering or baby yarns (about 32 sts per 4"/10cm).

Shetland can still be found today; a two-ply lace-weight can also be used.

Single Berlin, like its relative double Berlin, was traditionally of merino wool; single is a needlepoint or fingering weight.

Worsted or lamb's wool is equivalent to modern sport weight; it is not a modern worsted, but refers to the way the wool was spun.

Zephyr is probably a light fingering weight wool.

A detailed table of discontinued vintage yarns (i.e. mostly 20th-century) and their respective weights can be found here, and a very helpful table of specific modern equivalents to historical yarns can be found here.